时装画基础文档.ppt

时装画技法FASHION ILLUSTRATION Date: 1st Oct. 2005 SECOND EDITION 外形——轮廓 一、结构图的表现 The flat ※ We speak then of the general “outline” of the silhouette. ※ We distinguish different kinds: straight, round, trapeze, cut at the waist or flowing…… [5] 服装和服装的细节 服装的分部表现主要分为： 服装结构分类[领、袖、摆、襟]； 服装细节分类[纽扣、拉链、袋、衩]； 服装附件分类[鞋、帽、包、巾]。 一、结构图的表现 The flat ※ Garment can be differentiated to: different structures, different details, different accessories, etc…… [5] 服装和服装的细节 领子 the collars 一、结构图的表现 The flat a whole collar include neckline, collar band, turnover line and outside collar. 从结构上说，一个完整的领子包括了领线、领座、领翻折线和领面等四个部分。 [5] 服装和服装的细节 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat 怎样画领型？ how to draw necklines and collars [1] find center/front line and shoulder line, check their vertical relationship; [2] find shoulder neck intersection and neck line; [3] find the intersection from collar line to c/f line; [4] draw the shape of collar band and outside collar; [5] notice: the interspace between collar and neck. [5] 服装和服装的细节 从结构上说，一个完整的袖子包括袖山（袖肥）、袖窿、袖身、袖口等4大部分。 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat a whole sleeve include cap (biceps line), armhole, sleeve and sleeve opening. [5] 服装和服装的细节 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat 怎样画袖型？ how to draw sleeves [1] find shoulder point and armhole; [2] decide the shape of sleeve cap; [3] decide the length of sleeve; [4] decide the shape of sleeve opening or cuff; [5] notice: the interspace between sleeve and arm or wrist. [5] 服装和服装的细节 从功能上说，有的口袋具有实用功能，有的口袋具有装饰功能，有的口袋两种功能兼而有之。 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat pocket’s function combines practicality and decoration. [5] 服装和服装的细节 从功能上，门襟是穿着方式的问题。 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat in function, cross-over means how to dress the body. [5] 服装和服装的细节 从功能上说，纽扣是带结文化——系带方式的问题。纽扣也有实用功能和装饰功能，或者两种功能兼而有之。 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat button’s function combines practicality and decoration, too. [5] 服装和服装的细节 一、结构图的表现 [1]服装的分部表现 The flat ※ Box pleats ※ Topstitched flat pleats ※ Large pleats ※ Smocking etc….. 褶皱　the pleat